The meal started with a broth tasting. Three teacups on a rectangular plate held a progression (or “flight,” if you prefer drinking nomenclature) of distinct soups — dark brown, then amber-hued, then ...

Unlike the usual steaming broth, this unique pho dish in Lao Cai is served with a thick, rich sauce, accompanied by sliced char siu, eggs, crispy noodles, and more. Unlike traditional pho, which is ...